Kanazawa: The Last Castle
Location: Kanazawa
Date: Aug. 31st – Sept 1st, 2005
Within the centermost part of Japan lies the last castle ever made in the Land of the Rising Sun. Restored in 2001 to the standards of ancient Japan, this Castle town gets rave reviews, but is generally ignored by the populace. Admittedly, I wouldn’t want to end up in Kanazawa for the rest of my life if excitement was what I sought.
This isn’t part of Kanazawa, but a picture I took during the 2 hour trip from Kyoto. I couldn’t resist.

Leaving the JR station, you are immediately faced with these hotels. If you are a foreigner on a budget, you probably will get lost a few times looking for the hotel – I know that me and Moe did. Be very careful and be sure you know how far the hotel is from the station – if it is too far, you are risking embarassing yourself. The hotel in the front (Toyoko Inn) seems to be the easiest to find, although I admit, it was probably the most expensive. (We didn’t stay in it once)

Unlike Jesse Ventura, pro wrestlers have a long history of getting into parliament in Japan. In this picture, you can see Hiroshi Hase’s posters. The posters say “Awake to some progress” or something like that. I believe he was running for Koizumi’s political party – although no one could tell me for sure. It seems like all of Japan doesn’t give a damn about the elections.

Kanazawa is also famous for its fish market. Everything you can’t find in North America you can find there – probably cheaper than you could imagine. Me and Moe didn’t buy anything (obviously), but I think my dad would have liked it. (He hates the idea of going to Japan since he automatically disagrees with anything I ever do in my life – but he loves fish.)

This was a small family owned restaurant right close to Kanazawa Castle itself. The matron of the house came to get our order, while her husband cooked in the back. There were all sorts of old Mangas lying on a book case for patrons to read too. It was charming, but I wasn’t particularly hungry. Moe ordered Noodles, but later told me he didn’t much like them. Still I can’t complain about the service.

You can see Kanazawa Castle from here. When entering you have the option of purchasing an entry for the Kanazawa Gardens as well. I went ahead and did it – and saved myself 200 yen. (2$). :-/

After crossing an overpass and entering through the gigantic gates, you can see the first part of the castle. You can actually go inside.

There is a moat surrounding parts of the inner keep.

These stones are carved with the symbols of the house which provided the funding for that part of the castle, if I am not mistaken.

The castle keep’s roof is kept white through the usage of lead.


After taking off your shoes, you can see most of the entire interior of this building. It is all a museum dedicated to the structure and how it was rebuilt.

For some reason it struck me that this is probably the same view a Japanese soldier had a few hundred years back when the original castle stood in this spot.

As mentioned before, the interior included construction material used to build the castle. One deviation included the usage of American lumber for parts of the roof.

I don’t know if I am diverting too much from the real story, but you can probably detect that I am not too enthusiastic about Kanazawa. This is most likely due to the fact that while walking down this stretch of shops outside the castle, I came to realize how bored and alone I was. I wasn’t able to make any local friends, and all I could do was drift aimlessly though the streets, trying to find some meaning in what I saw so that the trip wouldn’t be a total loss.
Thank God Moe came along – it would have been awful being in that city completely alone.


This was one thing I thought was very cool. In front of the exit from the JR station there are these two fountains which show information about the city. This text changes automatically – I actually have some video of it which I’ll share if anyone is particularly interested in seeing it.

Who can forget the giant gate in front of the train station? An awesome melding of the old with new construction techniques. This was the larges Tori (gate) I saw in Japan.

This is the famous Geisha district of Kanazawa. While walking here, I brushed my camera against a parking meter (not hard or anything) and it stopped working. Swearing to myself and spending 40 minutes trying to fix it, I finally gave up and headed back to the bus stop. On the way I tried doing the same thing again and the camera mysteriously started working again. Gotta love modern technology.

For a fee, you can actually go inside a Geisha house. This is one of the few, if any, buildings which are declared to have cultural value in Japan. (Japan could use more historic buildings, or at least external facades – the streets of its big cities are no different from American or other western cities)

Again, the geisha house. This place was apparently very popular with the Shogun, or so I remember. My memory is playing tricks on me I’m sure.

These houses all were tiny, and have no numbers on them. A postman walked by me while I was here and he wakled up to a lady and asked her where someone else lived. I remember thinking that such a system could never work in my native Brossard – most people don’t know their immediate neighbour, let alone the guy 3 doors down!
Another interesting part was that each one of these houses seemed to double as either a home office or some kind of store.

I showed this picture to a friend of mine and she was outraged. “How dare someone keep pets and treat them so shabbily! Look at those poor cats, they are starving!”. I don’t know why, but I felt pretty small at that moment.

The Kanazawa Gardens are beautiful, even in hot and humid August.

Religion in Japan is something weird. Although people claim to be Buddhist or Shintoist (in most cases), they really don’t take it particularly seriously. Maybe that explains the use of abortion as birth control for younger Japanese. (Japan has one of the highest rates of Abortion in the world – 350,000 done every year)

They actually have a museum inside the park that you can enter. I remember it vividly because there were two girls there at the entrance and they were shocked out of their mind when I started talking to them in Japanese. When I explained that I had learnt it at McGill Univeristy, they somehow got the idea I was some kind of elite. Yeah right
These are actually Kanazawan local arts – and I thought they were stunningly beautiful. The traditional Japanese arts of dress were light years ahead of the rest of the world.

This looks like a Tottorian Shabushabu.

If you go to Japan and order an Iced Tea or Iced Coffee, please don’t expect it to be anything other than tea with ice cubes in it. Trust me – I found out the hard way (yuck). Nice cup though.

LOL – Japan’s own “We Support the Troops” sign. At least it isn’t a hypocritical pink ribbon on an SUV – it actually says “We pray for the success, safety and quick return of Japan’s Self Defence Army from Japan”

Remember what I said about the Japanese train system? The buses are the same. Each bus has a tracking device which indicates where it is, and an estimated time of arrival. Oh, and unlike Brossard, you don’t have to wait 1 hours on the weekend for a bus.

Moe found a couple of nice spots when he went to the hotel staff and made some gestures with a soccer ball. Everyone was staring at us funny after that, but I didn’t notice until Moe told me the story

I thought this would be the ideal image to close with. I didn’t learn much in Kanazawa, and I don’t have particularly fond memories of it, but I can’t hide from the fact that many places there were very beautiful. It is just too bad I didn’t know anyone ;-(
Kanazawa is incredible! I loved your pictures.. One more place to visit.. By the way..where exaclty is Kanazawa? Which prefecture? I’m going to Osaka/Kyoto this summer and I want to visit it.
Alberto A. Avena
April 7, 2006
I lived in Kanazawa for almost 4 years. I left while the station was being renovated. That gate (Torii. “Tori” means chicken.) is pretty incredible. People spend a lot of time, for good reason, complaining about some of the structures the Japanese erect, and then they go and make something like that. Wow. I’ll have to go back just to see it.
I had lots of fun living in Kanazawa. You just need to know where and when to go, I guess. I even had an opportunity to be entertained by geisha in Higashiyama. Not sure if I’d categorize that as “fun” per se, but it was certainly interesting.
Paul Yamagata-Madlon
April 9, 2006
Hi!
I really appreciated the photos, as it give me a good glimpse of what to expect when I go there this August ’06. So it sounds like August/September is going to be humid. I will be in this town for an intensive language training. Since you mentioned that in your opinion, there was nothing to do in the town, where would you recommend me to go during the weekends in the vicinity? Also, as I like to work out daily and go jogging (~40min) or hiking (few hours), can anyone recommend a good place to go, where people won’t look at me strangely? Is it common to see people jogging in the town area?
Actually, if anyone can help me, that would be great! Please email me at qqravenpp@yahoo.com.
Jolie Wu
July 27, 2006
I’ve accually been to kanazawa and it was incredible. I stayed at the Miyako hotel in front of Kanazawa Train Station and i really enjoyed it. Kanazawa doesn’t have many foriegners around so staying there kinda made me feel like a rockstar. Though there isn’t much to do there i still enjoyed going to the ken-rokuen garden, kanazawa castle, and seeing the samurai district.
Bryce
August 9, 2006
I got to this page from the Wikipedia link, and it’s a pity that the travelogue linked to is so blah about the place, as well as filled with inaccurate comments. I have lived in Kanazawa for the best part of 15 years, and I assure you, there is a LOT to do here. It is an ideal base for exploring central Japan from – just over two hours from Kyoto, it is within convenient day-trip distance from the World Heritage sites in Gokayama (Toyama/Gifu thatched houses), Takayama, Maruoka Castle in Fukui (one of the oldest in the country), the semi-restored ruins of Ichijoudani (oldest castle town in Japan), the generally fairly untouched Noto Peninsula, the mountains of Hakusan and Tateyama (along with Fuji, the Three Sacred Mountains of Japan), and so on. The city itself has numerous sightseeing places (see the WikiTravel article) and if you like eating and drinking there is no shortage of places to do that as well. I don’t go to nightclubs and the like so cannot talk about those, but the Korinbo-Katamachi area is FILLED with bars and pubs and restaurants and izakaya and the like.
A few comments on the photos. The first one which appears to be labelled as “This isn’t part of Kanazawa, but a picture I took during the 2 hour trip from Kyoto. I couldn’t resist.” doesn’t seem to exist: the first photo is of the Toyoko hotel and the Nikko (JAL) hotel by the station. The Nikko hotel is the tallest building on the Japan Sea coast (or was when it was built – not sure now) and almost certainly more expensive than the Toyoko – along with its rival ANA hotel opposite. Staying by the station is a bad idea however as the station is on the outskirts of the old city and far from the areas of interest.
The Hase Hiroshi poster on the building says “Awake to small government”. Yeah, when pigs get frequent flier miles….
The “fish market” of Omicho is also fruit and veges and meat and some clothes as well, and also has an international food supermarket tucked away. It has been on that site for some 400 years, fulfilling its role as “the kitchen of Kanazawa”.
The long low building inside the castle compound, the Gojikken Nagaya, is actually a very recent (but authentic) rebuilding of one that burned down in 1888. It is of interest, but if you’re going to pay 300 yen to go in you should save the money and pay 500 yen to see Himeji Castle, one of the best castles in the world.
You are not mistaken about the glyphs on the stones: they identify the houses that provided stone to make it known they were doing their feudal duty.
The roof of the castle is indeed lead: sheets a few millimetres thick moulded over wooden forms. There are various theories about why this was done, ranging from aesthetics to fireproofing to emergency bullet supplies to a surplus of lead after the central government banned domain money production. Incidentally, it is possible to see in several areas places where lead has got stuck to stones when it melted in fires: when these wooden buildings burned, the lead roofs melted and firefighters were hampered from getting near by a waterfall of molten lead. Not a good idea….
The view from the tower is obviously rather different, although the hills haven’t changed much.
The stretch of shops is just outside Kenrokuen and sells souvenirs and stuff.
The gate outside the station is not a torii, but based on the drums used in Noh, Noh being a traditional cultural passtime in Kanazawa.
There are a great many buildings which are deemed to have “cultural value” in Japan: 256 are ‘National Treasures’, 3911 are ‘Important Cultural Properties’, and masses more are designated as Prefectural or Municipal properties. The geisha house shown, Shima, would not have been visited by the Shogun at all, nor by the domain lord, at least not officially: samurai were not supposed to carouse in the tea districts. Didn’t stop them slipping in incognito, but these areas were mainly for merchants.
All houses have numbers on them, and most also the name of the occupant. In the area shown, near the Higashiyama Geisha District, they would be something like ‘Higashiyama 14-15′. House number 15 of block 14 in Higashiyama. It has in fact got harder to find addresses after the PO did away with small individual blocks in almost all areas nationwide in favour of larger ones – so addresses that were once Asahi-cho 16 would become something like ‘Asahi-cho 1-6-7′, a lot harder to find, but a lot easier to sort the mail for. In fact with the advent of the longer seven-figure post codes it is possible to address a letter using only numbers.
Those cats are probably strays being fed by some kind-hearted local. Stray cats are very common in Japan, and somewhat of a problem in that they are not spayed or neutered.
The photo labelled “Kanazawa Gardens” is of Kenrokuen technically. The photo below it where Shinto and Buddhism are described is of Yamata-Takeru-no-Mikoto, an early mythical hero, and was erected to commemorate the South-West War of 1871 (the Saigo Rebellion – the silly climatic battle in the appallingly-bad ‘Last Samurai’ if you like). It is the oldest non-Buddhist statue in Japan I believe.
What else would iced tea be but tea with ice?
Yes, the bus system is pretty nice, and generally pretty accurate. Each bus stop will have a posted timetable and that is often fairly accurate as well.
BTW, I don’t feel like a rock star here….
JP
January 31, 2007