About Me: Jawaad Mahmood: 30, Muslim, Canadian, freelance, doing consulting in Tokyo, Japan.

Kanonji – Supersized!

March 12, 2007

観音寺 Kanonji map 観音寺 Kanonji map

The new style of my blog lends itself far more effectively to pictures. Here is the first of a few reposts that should have much clearer pictures than what I had previously. I have also included many more pictures at the end – 56k users beware.

Kanonji JR Station 観音寺
Kanonji (観音寺), or the “Temple of Kanon”, is a small town in Shikoku, Japan. (Small being a relative term in Japan – the town has more than 65,000 people who live there). It contains several temples which Japanese Buddhist pilgrims go to visit annually, the first of which was established in 807 CE.


観音寺 お寺 kanonji temple

観音寺 お寺 kanonji temple
Not being Buddhist myself, I concede that it might appear strange that I would wind up in this town.Temples and farms dot the town. Sometimes you see tiny altars squished between houses. However, in modern Japan, you rarely see anyone there; that is anyone except the very old or those who are there on a special occassion. This includes people looking to get married, people getting ready for exams, et cetera.


This picture probably best shows what modern Japan is. Vending machines are omnipresent, even in front of old buildings where they ruin the entire look. You’d think the companies would make more of an effort to blend in, but capitalism doesn’t reward people who try to appease local sensibilities.

kanonji grave
There isn’t much to do in a small town but drink and contemplate death. A kindly person left a can of beer here for his departed friend.

get our children jobs
Part of the problem with these places is that all the young kids have left and gone to Tokyo and Osaka. Japan already has a horrible problem with population contraction, but smaller cities are feeling the pinch more than others. This sign is from a political party that is promising jobs for young residents. Unfortunately, reality cannot be changed by words. Japan needs immigrants, both to provide some grown and to re-orient their culture (which has become far too materialistic, much like our own Quebecois culture).

Pear trees

Farm yard
The farms in Shikoku produce a whole range of vegetables, including lettuce, onions, celery. I saw a whole bunch of fruit trees, although it seems they only produce pears from the trees. I’ll have to look it up some more.

Lost in the dark
I went in 2003, before all the recent “unpleasentness” in the Middle East. This matters because, you see, I started walking and wound up lost in pitch black darkness in the middle of some farmer’s fields. (I honestly cannot recall how I wound up there). I had to listen to the sounds of passing trains and follow them to the city. I imagine that the sight of a foreigner jumping a fence so he could reach the sidewalk might lead to a nice long time behind bars today. I’m sure the world is safer, for every worthless beta male who sits at home and mows his lawn.

As for interesting foods I discovered here, I had Taiyaki for the first time here. Taiyaki is this Japanese sweet made from sweet beans and shaped like a fish. I was scared to death of trying it, because I didn’t know how it would taste, but I loved it after I took the plunge. I wish I had a picture, but it is pretty easy to find online.

Kotohiki Park 琴弾公園
Truth be told, you would have to be an idiot to vacation in Kanonji for non-religious reasons due to in-city reasons. The real interesting part of Kanonji is just on the outskirts of town – it is Kotohiki Park (琴弾公園).

Kotohiki Park 琴弾公園
Kotohiki Park has a beach, a small hill to climb, and a particularly fascinating monument in the middle of the park, although I will show that a bit later.

Kotohiki Park 琴弾公園
The beach is filled with people out for a walk. I love it. The only problem is that it is messy; you would think that the people would clean it up, it makes for a nice tourist attraction.

Kotohiki Park 琴弾公園
The path up-hill is not long, but most lazy people take their cars up. Only old people, and the fool-hardy like me walk uphill. There is a temple, and a look-out point to see all of Kotohiki park.

Zengata Sunae 銭形堂絵100 Yen Sand Sculpture
This is the Zengata Sunae (銭形堂絵); or the “100 Yen Sand Sculpture”. Basically, a feudal lord was carrying out an inspection of the area in 1633, and to show their spirit of hospitality, the locals spent one night with backhoes to build this sand sculpture for him. The sculpture itself is repaired by the population of the city in Spring and Fall, and whenever there is a major event (like a Typhoon). In all honesty, the only reason I came to Kanonji was to see this.

Zengata Sunae 銭形堂絵100 Yen Sand Sculpture
There is a saying in the Japanese language – “Zenigata o mita mono wa okane ni fujiyuu shinai” – or one that sees the 100 Yen Sculpture will never suffer for want. The sculpture is lit up at night, but I was too tired to climb to the top and look at it again.
Kotohiki Park Sunset

Kotohiki Park Sunset

Kotohiki Park Sunset
To this day, these are some of my favourite pictures I have ever taken.

Kotohiki Park Sunset
I once tried to explain to someone what this picture “meant” – how my footsteps would vanish before the day was over, and in the same way, we human beings would be forgotten, like footprints on the beach. She didn’t get it.

Kotohiki Park Sunset
I was there for 2 days, I don’t think anyone needs to stay longer unless they are there for religious reasons. I liked Kanonji a lot more when I was there than now when I look back – although nothing can take away the beauty of Kotohiki park, it was quite a long ride to get there (6 hours from Tokyo).

More Pics:
観音寺 お寺 kanonji temple
Shopping District

観音寺 お寺 kanonji temple
Main street (i know)

観音寺 お寺 kanonji flower shop
A small flower shop.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
A small (slippery) crossing which actually splits the town from one of the local mountains. (I saw a factory in the distance, although I had no idea what it was for)

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Grave Yard at the edge of town.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Dojo? I remember it had a “do not enter” sign in Japanese.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Parrots from Kotohiki park.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
観音寺 お寺 kanonji
I used the lights of the Pachinko parlour (to the right) to guide me back to civilization :/ Long story. Gotta love how they have these everywhere in Japan.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Dumb gaijin like me are all obsessed with the small differences; these roofs triggered in me no small amount of interest.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
This leads to Kotohiki park.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
This is why I don’t let my mom pack for me – ever. Lifting that injured my shoulders like crazy.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
It was shameful to see how easily an old woman scaled this path. I didn’t feel quite that bad though, since all the Japanese people took their car up.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
It is weird, I go to Japan and everyone I know seemed to like this pic the most.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Ancient compass.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
A temple at the top of the small hill I climbed.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Yours truly.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
The biologist in me tells me this has something to do with the direction the sun rises in the morning, but I am not sure. :/

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
HOW ROMANTIC. A STROLL ON THE BEACH.

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
Benefits of not having a shut-in father and an overbearing mother? I actually derived enjoyment from sitting and watching the water slowly envelop the beach at night (since I never had the chance to watch it before)

観音寺 お寺 kanonji
I was exhausted walking home at this point, as I had been on my feet all day. Ugh, the joys of relative poverty.

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